Horta – June 9

We’re on the inside of the outer seawall (the one with the road going nearly to the end), about half way out.  We were supposed to be on the inside of the all green one, at the anchor icon, across the harbor; quite a difference in proximity to town.

Work day

There’s lots to be done before we’re ready to play.  Bob has satellite communications repair, as well as engine maintenance and toilet seat replacement that needs his attention.  Shar and I are tasked with food & supplies re-provisioning.  Jason is assisting on both sets, in addition to his quest to explore the local beer selection.

Among the five boats, there’s enough work to be done that James Knight of Yacht Tech and Rob Cote of Ocean Currents have flown in for four days, bringing parts and labor.

Rob attended to the satellite system repair, while James juggled projects on Moxie, Jura and Relish.  Meantime, the hunter-gatherers headed out to the local farmers’ market.

Jason found a beer so good that it comes in a half-size portion.

We finished the exploration-disguised-as-provisioning at the Continentale Modelo supermarket, where the seafood-to-meat ratio is about 4:1, including some nice salted, dried fish carcasses.

One of the unique features of town is the artwork in the stone sidewalks.  Stones are either black or white, and mostly square-ish.  Every block seems to have a different pattern.  All this appears to be labor intensive beyond imagining.  The courtyard of this church is an example of what can be achieved.

Beginning to relax

We’d heard of a unique restaurant, nearby, at which Jason made reservations for 7 o’clock (we’re on landlubber time).  By the time we returned from shopping, it was 6:30.  There’s no time for happy hour, but all the chores were done, including A NEW TOILET SEAT!  Thanks to James for bringing and installing it.

The restaurant, Canto da Doca, is truly unique.  The night before, I’d seen it from the street and figured the dirty windows put it in the ‘don’t go there’ category.  Then, when I learned why they might not be super clean, all was forgiven.  It gets a bit smokey in there, from time to time.  That comes from the DIY cooking.  Every diner is equipped with a super-hot granite stone, about 6″ square and 2″ thick, on which a selection of seafood/beef/chicken is cooked.  At your own pace, you can slap a thinly sliced piece of, say, swordfish on the rock, turn it over when the desired done-ness is achieved, sprinkle a little coarse salt on it, slice off a bite-sized piece, dip it in a little garlicky aleoli, devour it, smack your lips and smile.  Repeat with a little beef, repeat with a prawn, repeat with…well, you should get the idea by now.  

Every once in a while, the staff cranks up a supercharged fan to clear the air. It’s a bit loud, so they don’t run it constantly.

We all agreed that it was the most fun dinner in ages…and a good moment for the fun part of our visit to begin. Tomorrow and Sunday, we are hoping to explore more of the town and island.

4 thoughts on “Horta – June 9

  1. accidental or not – Nice to fell connected.
    Yeay for y’all. Glad to see all the posts come in this morning.


  2. I’ve been watching you on the GPS Daily from Bermuda to the Azores and there have been readings where you’re below sea level. Well, with the 15 foot swells, I now understand that. OMG I can’t believe nobody got seasick. There was one hell of a storm to the north of you I was following on the Doppler. I don’t know why it wasn’t classified as a hurricane but it covered the whole Atlantic Ocean from Florida to Ireland. And you just caught the tail end of it thank God. Loved all your blogs Love Susan


  3. This was fabulous! I loved reading the daily account of your adventure. Of course, the interruption during your crossing was quite disturbing. We just prayed all the more fervently. I am so impressed by the success of this endeavor and the seeming lack of drama among crew mates. Wow! Peter, your narrative has been remarkable, so entertaining and descriptive. Kudos to all!!!


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